Wednesday, August 29, 2007
Baños
Kate and I are now luxuriating in the town of Baños, where the baths are hot and the dogs are friendly (they´ll literally follow you around and be your buddy all day). The food is suprisingly good here as well. I´m still getting used to the prices, but Kate has no problem saying a restuarant is ¨too expensive¨ if the meal is over $5. We´re staying in a great place named Plantos y Blancos, and our third story window looks out on the town cathedral and a nearby waterfall that falls into the hot spring pools that Banos is famous for (one pool is around 72 while the other is claimed to be 117).
We attended said pools this morning, and I´ve sworn to do it every morning we´re here. We also hiked up the Volcano just above the city today, and I could swear that I could hear some rumbling up there. The volcano has actually been active since around 2001, and we´ve been told that the city has a fabulous evacuation plan where everyone will peacefully ¨walk¨ to the nearby bridge that crosses the local river and calmly walk up the other side while the volcano erupts behind them.
Here´s to hoping we don´t have to see this in action.
The high country was great (aside from the case of Atahualpa´s revenge that I endured for a couple of days). The crater lake (the result of a volcano going pop) was beautiful and the local native people were great. When we get home remind us to tell you about the bus ride...
p.s. I guess that they don´t celebrate 4.20 down here exactly the same way, since when Kate commented on this man´s 420 shirt he turned beet red.
Thursday, August 23, 2007
Ecuador
So I finally made it down here to Ecuador to Kate´s smiling face. The plane ride was one of the more beautiful trips that I´ve had, looking down on slot canyon complexes in Arizona, passing above massive thunderstorms, and experiencing a sunset that made everything a bit more peaceful.
Quito is quite the city, with an old town full of cathedrals and colonial buildings, and a new town with discotecs, bars, and posh hotels. We stayed in the ¨Magic Bean¨ hosteria, where the sleep was hard to come by for me due to the elevation (it´s the second highest capitol, next to Bolivia´s La Paz) and the discotec next door. The food was good though. I´ve found that Ecuadorians love their fresh juice and tea with breakfast. After a couple of days we escaped Quito and hopped on a bus South towards the Cotopaxi National Park.
I´m a lucky man to have Kate, her Spanish is light years beyond my Spanglish, and she´s been able to navigate us without any hiccups so far. Right now we´re in a farm turned hosteria named Papagayo, with some of the best chocolate cake in South America.
Today we traveled up to Cotopaxi to see what we could see. The ride up there was long and grueiling since we happened to arrive just after half of the school children in Ecuador, and thus had the pleasure of eating the dust of 8 or 9 school buses (mmmm volcanic dust). At long last we made it up there and were presented with one of the most beautiful volcanos in the world.
Kate and I hiked up to around 4800 meters before turning around at the sound of thunder. Tomorrow we´re heading off to South America´s Crater Lake (Quilotoa) for a couple of days.
ciao Peru
Good times in Peru the last few weeks......
After Machu Piccu I splurged and flew to Lima (thus avoiding the insane 22 hour bus), bargained hard for a taxi and made my way to the bus terminal for an overnight bus to Huaraz. Peruvian long haul buses are surprisingly comfy with semi beds, blankets, pillows, dubbed movies and food. That said, it is a bus driving too fast often on poorly maintained roads with music blasting hearly 24 hours a day. I am always thankful to arrive safely.
Huaraz sits smack dab in the Cordillera Blanca surrounded by immense, Himalayan like peaks. I was in heaven. After 2 days of day hiking I started on a 4-day trek called oddly enough, the Santa Cruz trek. It was a proper trek since all I had to do was walk with a day pack and the mules and guides did everything else. What luxury! The scenery was fantastic (deep valleys, snow covered peaks, glaciers, glacial lakes) and I quickly bonded with 3 hillarious british travelers.
After the trek I went ice climbing for a day on a nearby glacier and quickly realized climbing at 15,000 feet has its challenges.
Persuaded by my new friends, I next headed to Trujillo and the coastal town of Huanchaco to see the famous ruins of Chan Chan and a few pyramids. It was here in Huanchaco that the whole room started swaying and I learned a few hours later of the terrible earthquake. Parting ways with the british accents and slang I headed north to Mancora for 4 glorious days seaside. Those 4 days were filled with lying in the hammock, reading on the beach, surfing small waves (while showing the locals that girls can surf!), eating seafood two times a day and drinking local beer with 3 wild Irish girls and the local surfer scence. One wild, somewhat dangerous border crossing later (and 12 hours in a hot, hot bus) I arrived in Quito. On the bus I met Julia, a sweet Peruvian girl on vaca, and we spent the next day walking around Quito speaking only in Spanish. It was my first day speaking all in Spanish and I loved it! At night I went to the airport and, like a kid at xmas, waited for Shawn. The arrival was thrilling and we spent yesterday exploring Qutio and roughly planning the next month. Today we are off to the volcano Cotopaxi for a few days of hiking.
It really is impossible to record even 1/10 of my experiences here, so here is a very short list of memorable Peruvian occurances...
1. People sell EVERYTHING, I mean everything (food, shoes, belts, insoles, back rests, socks, air freasheners, cord, napkins, etc) on the street. My favorite.... a scale where you pay to find out your weight.
2. There is someone at every corner yelling - llamada, llamada, llamada = phone call, phone call, phone call. Many people have cell phones in Peru, but they often can only accept calls, so people who can make calls out sell minutes on their phones (which are attached to them via a long chain which it very easy to trip over if you are not looking down)
3. Children street performers rush out at red lights and perform all manners of entertainment for money. Standing backflips are the best.
4. In each region the women have different traditional dress and hats that range from tall white mad hatter styles to brown bowlers to those ornately decorated with feathers. I wish I could pull that off in the USA.
5. They put papas frittas, aka french fries, in (not beside) everything. And rice comes with every meal.
6. Blond hair attracts attention.
Hello Ecuador.
After Machu Piccu I splurged and flew to Lima (thus avoiding the insane 22 hour bus), bargained hard for a taxi and made my way to the bus terminal for an overnight bus to Huaraz. Peruvian long haul buses are surprisingly comfy with semi beds, blankets, pillows, dubbed movies and food. That said, it is a bus driving too fast often on poorly maintained roads with music blasting hearly 24 hours a day. I am always thankful to arrive safely.
Huaraz sits smack dab in the Cordillera Blanca surrounded by immense, Himalayan like peaks. I was in heaven. After 2 days of day hiking I started on a 4-day trek called oddly enough, the Santa Cruz trek. It was a proper trek since all I had to do was walk with a day pack and the mules and guides did everything else. What luxury! The scenery was fantastic (deep valleys, snow covered peaks, glaciers, glacial lakes) and I quickly bonded with 3 hillarious british travelers.
After the trek I went ice climbing for a day on a nearby glacier and quickly realized climbing at 15,000 feet has its challenges.
Persuaded by my new friends, I next headed to Trujillo and the coastal town of Huanchaco to see the famous ruins of Chan Chan and a few pyramids. It was here in Huanchaco that the whole room started swaying and I learned a few hours later of the terrible earthquake. Parting ways with the british accents and slang I headed north to Mancora for 4 glorious days seaside. Those 4 days were filled with lying in the hammock, reading on the beach, surfing small waves (while showing the locals that girls can surf!), eating seafood two times a day and drinking local beer with 3 wild Irish girls and the local surfer scence. One wild, somewhat dangerous border crossing later (and 12 hours in a hot, hot bus) I arrived in Quito. On the bus I met Julia, a sweet Peruvian girl on vaca, and we spent the next day walking around Quito speaking only in Spanish. It was my first day speaking all in Spanish and I loved it! At night I went to the airport and, like a kid at xmas, waited for Shawn. The arrival was thrilling and we spent yesterday exploring Qutio and roughly planning the next month. Today we are off to the volcano Cotopaxi for a few days of hiking.
It really is impossible to record even 1/10 of my experiences here, so here is a very short list of memorable Peruvian occurances...
1. People sell EVERYTHING, I mean everything (food, shoes, belts, insoles, back rests, socks, air freasheners, cord, napkins, etc) on the street. My favorite.... a scale where you pay to find out your weight.
2. There is someone at every corner yelling - llamada, llamada, llamada = phone call, phone call, phone call. Many people have cell phones in Peru, but they often can only accept calls, so people who can make calls out sell minutes on their phones (which are attached to them via a long chain which it very easy to trip over if you are not looking down)
3. Children street performers rush out at red lights and perform all manners of entertainment for money. Standing backflips are the best.
4. In each region the women have different traditional dress and hats that range from tall white mad hatter styles to brown bowlers to those ornately decorated with feathers. I wish I could pull that off in the USA.
5. They put papas frittas, aka french fries, in (not beside) everything. And rice comes with every meal.
6. Blond hair attracts attention.
Hello Ecuador.
Sunday, August 19, 2007
I'm outa here...
Thursday, August 16, 2007
Safe
Just a quick post to let you all know that I am 100% safe after the big terramotto down here. I am now way far north in the resort surfing town of Mancora near the Ecuador border. Last night I was in the town of Huanchaco when the eq hit and for10 seconds the whole room swayed - it felt like I was on a big ship at sea. Crazy. My thoughts go to those affected down south.
Monday, August 6, 2007
¡Buenas Dias!
I have just had the best shower of my life and the usual, very boring, breakfast of bread, butter, jam, and tea. Yesterday I went to Machu Piccu and had a marvelous day. I awoke at 5 am and walked through the dark streets of Agus Calientes to the bus up to the ruins. Along the way I walked through the fruit and vegetable market busy with locals taking down blue tarps opening up shop and past a Peruvian man whom I had met on the train the night before. Upon eye contact he happily shouted CALIFORNIA!, most likely waking up everyone in a 3 block radius. It came as no surprise that although I was early for the bus there were already 50 people in line. Machu Piccu sure is famous. Luckily they have the whole system dialed and 30 minutes later I was watching the sunrise over the ruins. I have to say that even though I have seen 100s of pictures of the ruins before, shelled out quite a bit of money to get there, and was not alone, the site before me was still powerfully breath taking. After watching the sun rise and the fog roll in and around the ruins for a while I hiked up Wanu Piccu (that famous tall mountain next to the ruins) for an even better view of the ridge Machu Piccu so desperately clings to. It was easy to spend hours walking around the ruins and I passed out in an Incan terrace in the warm sun for awhile before heading back down to the train. On the train I treated myself to a Milky Way and a much needed 2 hour nap. In a few hours I will be on a plane to Lima, then a bus north to Huaraz to start a backpack in the Cordillera Blanca. Cheers to big mountains, ancient cultures, warm showers, and friendly faces. Did you know one of the national food specialities is guinea pig?
I have just had the best shower of my life and the usual, very boring, breakfast of bread, butter, jam, and tea. Yesterday I went to Machu Piccu and had a marvelous day. I awoke at 5 am and walked through the dark streets of Agus Calientes to the bus up to the ruins. Along the way I walked through the fruit and vegetable market busy with locals taking down blue tarps opening up shop and past a Peruvian man whom I had met on the train the night before. Upon eye contact he happily shouted CALIFORNIA!, most likely waking up everyone in a 3 block radius. It came as no surprise that although I was early for the bus there were already 50 people in line. Machu Piccu sure is famous. Luckily they have the whole system dialed and 30 minutes later I was watching the sunrise over the ruins. I have to say that even though I have seen 100s of pictures of the ruins before, shelled out quite a bit of money to get there, and was not alone, the site before me was still powerfully breath taking. After watching the sun rise and the fog roll in and around the ruins for a while I hiked up Wanu Piccu (that famous tall mountain next to the ruins) for an even better view of the ridge Machu Piccu so desperately clings to. It was easy to spend hours walking around the ruins and I passed out in an Incan terrace in the warm sun for awhile before heading back down to the train. On the train I treated myself to a Milky Way and a much needed 2 hour nap. In a few hours I will be on a plane to Lima, then a bus north to Huaraz to start a backpack in the Cordillera Blanca. Cheers to big mountains, ancient cultures, warm showers, and friendly faces. Did you know one of the national food specialities is guinea pig?
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